| PROJECT TITLE | STATUS/DATE | COMMENTS |
|---|---|---|
| Have brakes checked | Completed 9/15/22 | Brake inspection also looked good, just used to cars with power brakes |
| Change oil | Completed 9/15/22 | Unknown when last done, change oil to be safe |
| Replace gearshifter knob | Completed 9/18/22 | Ordered and replaced |
| Validate if car overheating | Completed 11/16/22 | Engine was150F after 2h drive Appears to be normal/expected, when stopped in traffic in middle of hot day, etc. |
| Replace tires | Completed 10/13/22 | Pricing P75/70R13 tires locally, tires received on 10/13, installed/balanced and mounted on car same day |
| Replace heater switch | Completed 12/11/22 | Located and ordered replacement switch, installed in dashboard Will test heater control to see if it breaks valve cable, should work otherwise Heater was fine, keeping valve control as backup part, closing this item as resolved |
| Fix driver’s door alignment | Completed 11/16/22 | Wouldn’t close without slamming Fixed during visit to Dave’s Place in Henderson |
| Fix leak from back hatch | On hold | This was a problem back when grandfather still had the car Appears to be result of rust along bottom lip of hatch, though this could also be a symptom |
| Replace wiper control | Completed 12/13/22 | Switch works, icon is worn off, this is entirely cosmetic Found used switch, not sure worth $50 since problem will recur Found NOS washer control (more than wanted to spend, but not an unfair price) and installed |
| Fix fan switch or blower | Completed 11/16/22 | Fan appears to work fine, tested with engine off, was just unable to hear it running with engine started |
| Fix interior light switch | Completed 11/16/22 | Need to clean/repair OEM hinge cover, install used dome light Tested with circuit tester and light wires work properly |
| Fix windshield washer | In progress | Broke dash pump switch during testing, will replace control and test Replaced with NOS part that Dave was able to source, pump works fine, but tubing appears to leak Ordered new tubing and water bottle (current one has broken cap) to install/test |
| Troubleshoot headlight switch | Completed 12/13/22 | Removed aftermarket toggle switch and restored to steering wheel stem Discovered short in this switch that affects dash lights (flicker) but is manageable Replaced with NOS switch that works perfectly |
| Troubleshoot headlight selector | Completed 3/8/23 | Replaced switch with NOS switch Still having some issues, may require modifying housing on steering column to provide more room for pull-to-flash Confirmed selector is wired properly (see notes in this post) and ordered new clamshell escutcheons Will use Dremel to increase rearward clearance, which should solve the problem |
| Brake lights stay on | Completed 11/16/22 | Adjusted switch so light turns off when brake pedal released |
| Engine mixture too rich | Completed 11/16/22 | Adjusted carburetors during inspection, appears to be resolved |
| Convert dash to LED bulbs | Completed 3/8/23 | After driving home from Dave’s Place after dark, realized that bulbs in dash lights are much too dim Installed a couple LED lights to gauge if their brightness is too extreme — they are amazing Ordered kit to replace remaining bulbs, as well as new bulbs to replace warning indicators (main beam, oil, ignition) |
| Reseat seal in driver’s door | Completed 11/24/22 | This was displaced while fixing the door alignment issue above Needs to be reseated from bottom and pushed in at top with a screwdriver Note: This comes out again each time we work on the car. I’m going to need to affix it with trim adhesive for now At some point, I am going to need to shave down the lip this fastens under, rivet on a new one, and pain it |
| Fix minor gauges (temp, fuel) | Completed 12/13/22 | These gauges work intermittently and are controlled by a stabilizer on back of speedometer or tachometer The issue was the stabilizer, which we learned is not located on the back of the speedometer or tachometer No, it’s behind the driver’s side parcel shelf (glove box) which has to be entirely removed, because, of course it is Replaced stabilizer and confirmed gauges now working properly, closing item as completed |
| Replace rubber knuckle in steering | Completed 12/13/22 | URGENT: This rubber connector is deteriorated and creates play in steering wheel currently Could be a safety problem if it disintegrates during operation Replaced flex coupling at same time as replacing motor mounts (see below) |
| Replace motor mounts | Completed 12/13/22 | These are old and cracked and need to be replaced, can be swapped out when steering linkage item above is fixed Ordered replacements (2) from Moss Motors, swapped out during fallow-up trip to Dave’s Place |
| Fix engine run-on | Completed 12/13/22 | This happens with the car is warm and engine is turned off Can create problems it not addressed, will prioritize on next trip to Dave’s Place Adjusted carburetor settings to address this, will monitor in coming weeks |
| Clean firewall rust | Not started | This appears to be limited to the firewall near the master cylinders, probably from brake fluid Need to clean with wire brush, convert the rust, and repaint |
| Address oil seepage | Not started | Not particularly problematic, nor is it a new development |
| Affix carpet to interior | In progress | There are some remnants in the car, but original carpet, where still exists, has pulled away from interior Have fasteners for remnants and will reapply glue on original carpet Purchased 3M trim adhesive and will address interior carpet first, then use fasteners for carpet sections/floor mats |
| Check valve clearance levels | In progress | Will also clean valve cover at same time Awaiting gasket adhesive (ordered online) |
| Identify spare key codes | Completed 12/13/22 | Key codes not on British Heritage Certificate Unable to find codes on lock barrels Dave rekeyed rear hatch (boot) so that door keys unlock it |
| Restore OEM hinge cover | Completed 9/9/23 | Replace aftermarket hinge cover so dome light can be used again Requires cleaning and repairing brittle fiberglass or plastic used original |
| Fix horn | Completed 12/13/22 | Wire seems to have come loose when working on light selector inside steering column Turned out to be the relay switch, just a bad connection, easily fixed |
| Steering orientation off | Completed 3/8/23 | When tightening the steering linkage flex coupler, the wheels must not have been straight Top of steering wheel is at about 10 o’clock, turn signal does not reset after left turns Requires disconnecting steering linkage again, will fix locally or take back to Dave’s Place soon |
Ongoing Maintenance/Learning
- Check coolant, flush and refill every two years
- Oil change (every 2,500 miles)
- Filter change (every 5,000 miles), requires disconnection of engine bay side panel at firewall
- Lube rear hubs every 6,000 miles (no more than six strokes from grease gun
- Change brake shoes
- Lubricate u-joints
- Lubricate front trunnions, with 90-weight gear oil, not grease, usually add STP to this 90-weight, apply with dedicated grease gun, video
- Replace sheet metal cover that snapped on auxiliary radiator during cool months?
- Replace generator brushes
- Replace wiper blades
- Regular check (every 2-4 weeks: oil level, master cylinder, generator brushes, coolant, fan belt, battery, top up carburetor dashpots, tires, underside and differential for oil seepage), buy long inspection mirror
- Check transmission and rear end oil levels every 10,000 miles (more often if seepage occurs)
Note: Per Dave Crane, he still uses 80w90 GL1 gear oil in the trans and diffs, which is what came in them originally. He does have customers that use Red Line in their trans which makes them shift smoother and he has used that on occasion. As far as the trunnions go, they originally were oiled, which is better for them. It’s very common today for people to grease them, which works, but is not as good. (09/07/32)